What we can learn from Kylie Jenner’s face wash ‘fail’

If a famous billionaire can launch a skincare line and be accused of not knowing anything about washing her face - what hope do we have? An expert weighs in.

The world's youngest billionaire came out with a skin care range - and people trashed it. Kylie Jenner posted a ten second clip of herself (augmented with a pink filter) using her own brand to wash her face which left foundation residue on her towel when she wiped her face dry. People criticised this and also said she didn’t do a deep enough or long enough cleanse.

Well it seems people still went out and bought the skincare range, even though her products were also trashed for containing harsh or heavy ingredients.

And this event made me realise that I have never really had a solid skincare regime. Sure I look for specific products that are gentle enough for my rosacea but I certainly don’t lather for a certain time, nor let it rest or rinse for an amount of time...I just wing it.

So after a mini panic and clear out of my bathroom cupboards. I sought out advice from Skintifix skincare expert Robyn McAlpine to get a rundown on skincare etiquette.

Does everyone need to wash their face?

Absolutely! Even without makeup, our skin comes into contact with all kinds of bacteria, pollutants, sweat and oil secretions. Cleansing is vital for keeping our skin healthy and functioning well and it allows our serums and moisturisers to work more effectively when applied to clean skin.

Is there a set amount of time we should wash our face for?

Finding the balance between under cleansing and over cleansing is an important skill to master. An under cleansed skin will be left with daily makeup residue and grime, where as an over cleansed skin will become irritated and sensitive.

Cleansing isn’t about how fast you do it, but how thorough you are.

Working your cleanser into your skin takes more than ten seconds. When cleansing it is important to make sure to cover your hairline, neck and décolletage, remembering to focus on your brows and lashes to gently cleanse away the build-up of skin cells, debris, makeup and dirt. Breaking down daily exposures and makeup should take a minute or two and should be repeated with a second cleanse.

Kylie Jenner has been criticised for her skincare line due to harsh chemicals (fact check). What ingredients should we be aware of when buying skincare products?

Not all skin care is skin ‘care’ and it’s important to look at who is actually creating your products. How much does a celebrity really know about skin? Have they studied cell biology and cosmetic chemistry?

It can seem lucrative for an influencer to put their name to a product but it doesn’t always translate to a healthy skin care product that supports the function of skin, our largest vital organ! There is a big difference between good marketing and a good product and it’s rare that any widely endorsed product found on social media has the recipe or ingredients for quality skin care.

I look for skin care that is bio-identical to what our skin is made up of and works with the function of skin instead of against it.

I avoid using and recommending ingredients that disrupt the skin’s barrier and cause micro inflammation in the skin. Strong foaming agents, emulsifiers and acids are the ingredients I steer my clients away from as these tend to interrupt our skin’s function. I also look to avoid silicones, preservatives colours and dyes as these don’t offer much support to our skin and can often be the leading cause of congestion and breakouts.

How do you know what ‘type’ of skin you have?

I have learned over my years as a skin therapist that most people incorrectly diagnose their own skin type (and occasionally their beauty therapist has also gotten it wrong).

This can cause a lot of skin problems because each skin type requires specific protocols of care. Using the wrong skin care for your skin type can lead to more advanced skin conditions. If you’re unsure of your skin type, I highly recommend finding your nearest corneotherapist to help you understand what your skin needs.

So what are the best routines for different skin types?

Oily: the most commonly misdiagnosed skin type. Truly oily skin is more rare than you might think. Despite what most people believe, an oily skin type still needs hydration and a protective moisturiser. A lighter formula will help an oily skin to feel nourished without feeling heavy and adding to the oil. I like to choose a light formula base like a gel or light cream and customise it with active ingredients to help manage the oil flow whilst still supporting and protecting the skin.

Normal: a healthy balanced skin is one of the most common skin types but often suffers as we tend to be a little less careful when our skin is well behaved and doesn’t react to products as quickly. I see this skin type age more rapidly due to it being not as well kept as those with skin that is a little more demanding. This skin can quickly become unbalanced when not supported by products which maintain a happy balance of oil and water.

Combination: this is not a skin type. It’s such a common misconception that I dedicated a whole section on it in my book, Skinside Out. It is simply skin that is neither oily or dry but has a varying level of oil flow most commonly presenting around the mid face. I prefer to scale this skin type based on the level or lack of oil present and prescribe skin care accordingly. This is the beauty of working with a product like Dermaviduals. No two skins are the same therefore I can create the perfect product for any variation of skin type.

Using “combination” labelled skin care means that your skin is either not getting enough support or getting too much as not all areas of the face need the same solution. If your skin expert diagnoses you with combination skin, perhaps it’s time to seek out a corneotherapist who understands that no two skins are alike.

Dry: as dry skin has very low lipids secretions, this skin type needs to be supported with lipid rich skin care, ensuring this skin type is well protected. If you have that tight dry feeling after you cleanse, this may be an indication of a lipid dry skin (or it could also mean your cleanser is stripping your oils - again it’s important you work with a skin expert to make sure you’re not misdiagnosing). I like to tailor a skin care regime that uses lots of skin identical oils particularly when my clients are in an environment with low humidity, (think air conditioned offices, artificial heating, winter, aeroplanes).

Redness: Is not a skin type but a condition. Both oily or dry skin types, and anything in between can go through times of redness. Often linked to an impaired skin barrier or inflammation. The first thing I do when consulting with a client with redness is to investigate what the underlying cause might be. Redness can often be caused by using the incorrect skin care for their skin type, unfriendly skin care ingredients or something more internal. Not all redness is caused by the same thing so figuring this out is the first step to improving this condition.

Well there you have it - straight from the expert’s mouth. Skincare is complex but with some trial and error you should be able to find something that suits you.